Your Guide to Sri Lanka’s Favourite East Coast Town
April usually marks a shift. The first signs of the southwest monsoon appear, warm balmy winds and evening showers roll across the palm-fringed south coast. As the rains get heavier, surfers slowly disappear from the buzzing towns of Ahangama, Mirissa and Hiriketiya and head east towards Arugam Bay.
Unfortunately, it’s become a lot harder to predict the weather. The changing seasons are not as obvious, in fact, Ahangama’s beach made its appearance for the season only a week or so ago, and the east coast is already looking fantastic. So, if you’re considering making the trip out east earlier this year, here are some of my favourite experiences in the beautiful Arugam Bay.
QUICK LOOK AT A’BAY
There’s a slow rhythm as you drive into Arugam Bay. The two-lane road is lined by lush mahogany trees and framed by paddy fields on either side. Here, you’ll pass cows, goats, buffalos and even the occasional elephant grazing in the fields. Then, you take a turn, and soon you’ll be in the heart of the Arugam Bay strip.
While Sri Lanka’s southern beaches have suffered from overcrowding, A’bay has kept its cool and remains rural at heart, at least for now. Its low-key nature is all part of the town’s allure. Time moves slowly, as do the people; whether they’re tourists or locals, everyone has an unhurried, go-with-the-flow vibe.
FEAST
As M.F.K Fisher said, “First we eat, then we do everything else.” For me, every trip to Arugam Bay begins with beer-battered fish and chips at Gecko. Enjoy their delicious pub-style food and freshly baked treats while sitting on the powder-soft, sandy beach. For dinner (or any time of the day, really), head to Hideaway. With an almost 50-year-long history, this place invented the Arugam Bay scene. Just off the main road, their property feels like you’re stepping into a jungle oasis.
Another A’bay staple is Salty Swamis. Somehow, we end up there multiple times every trip, but I’m not complaining because their brunch game is phenomenal. Their beachfront garden restaurant makes it the perfect place to have a bite and a swim, although it’ll be tough to do much swimming after a meal there.
The Arugam Bay heat is unrelenting, and after a few hours in the sun, you will need a midday pick-me-up to cool down. Head to Kaffi for strong coffee and Nordic-style baked goods. It’s within Spice Trails and LBK and just a stone’s throw away from Hideaway.
BEACH
Surfing is woven into Arugam Bay’s cultural fabric, so it shouldn’t be a surprise that the region has some fabulous beaches. What makes Arugam Bay so charming- and unlike any southern beach- is that there is a wildness to it. You have to navigate small, dusty dirt roads and pass through dry bush forests to access some of its beaches, but like with most things, the effort makes it all the more worth it.
Elephant Rock Beach is popular for beginner and intermediate surfers and is also an excellent place to watch the sunset. The beach is about a 15-minute drive from Arugam Bay town, and to access it, you must scramble up a rock that resembles (you guessed it) an elephant. The Rock offers stunning views of the rugged landscape. From here, you can watch surfers ride waves in the cerulean ocean, elephants wander through the surrounding forest in the distance, and the sun’s reflections dance on the dark lagoon waters.
Peanut Farm Beach is farther away, and the waves are for more experienced surfers, but it is definitely worth a visit. The beach feels like a deserted island. Located next to an abandoned peanut farm, overgrown jungle now encroaches the golden beach, and in the night, elephants roam the sandy dunes. Wooden structures that sell food, drink, and souvenirs and rent surfboards have been put up. After a quick dip to cool off, we got a pizza from the Papa Jeevz stall here. Eating the pizza (made in a makeshift wood fired oven!) on the beach with our toes digging in the sand and the sound of crashing waves made it all the more delicious.
CULTURE
Aside from its glorious beaches, A’bay has a long and rich history. There’s a certain point in the day, from noon till about 3pm, in Sinhala it’s referred to as, “yakku gas nagina welãwa” which literally translates to the time devils climb the trees. While I’m sure there’s a long cultural meaning behind this phrase, it basically means you have to be crazy to step outside at this time because it is scorching. If you can’t sit still and take a nap, this is the perfect time to explore some of Arugam Bay’s historical and cultural sites.
One such site is the Magul Maha Vihara. The temple is set amidst a tangle of forest and was built in the 2nd century BC by King Kavantissa of the Ruhuna Kingdom. He built the temple at the exact location where he married Princess Viharamahadevi, daughter of Kelani Tissa. The temple is believed to have been part of the palace complex that covered around 10,000 acres. Today, you can see its well-preserved stupa and moonstone, and the ruins of the palace and monastery. Another Buddhist temple associated with the same legend is Muhudu Maha Vihara. Located on the sandy dunes of Pottuvil beach, this temple is said to be the location where Viharamahadevi landed after she willingly sacrificed herself to the ocean after a natural disaster ravaged her father’s kingdom.
PARTY
No trip to Arugam Bay would be complete without a small boogie. Start your night at Fins, which serves up some great cocktails and even better vibes. Although a relative newcomer, Fins has firmly established itself in the A’bay scene. After that, if you’re looking for something more laid-back, head to Hideaway, Hideout, or Waypoint. These resto-bars have sprawling gardens lit by twinkling fairy lights, and they take turns throughout the week having live music and open mic nights. If you’re looking for something livelier and more upbeat, then Mambos it is. They have two locations, one on Arugam Bay beach and the other at Whiskey Point. Both places have their charms, but the highlight will be seeing Dr Baby and DJ Dishan perform. They’re the two fan favourites who have been strong figures in Sri Lanka’s house music scene.
Whether it’s for the perfect wave, an animal sighting, the beat to drop, or the sun to set so it gets a little cooler, Arugam Bay teaches you to slow down and that the best things come to those who wait. Even though it is a long seven-hour drive from Colombo, I hope you make it out there at some point this season and experience everything this mellow seaside town has to offer.
