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Stretching across the Uva and Eastern provinces, the Gal Oya National Park isn’t the easiest place to get to. It requires an almost seven-hour drive from Colombo; half on the Southern Expressway and the other half on winding roads, framed by thick jungle. But it’s this seclusion that keeps the hordes of tourists (and over-development) at bay – at least for now. I visited the park, and the wonderful Gal Oya Lodge in April 2021, and it was extraordinary.
Gal Oya Lodge perfected “slow travel” long before it became a buzzword and the most sought-after form of travel. This eco-lodge-cum-boutique hotel is scattered across a 20-acre property. With nine teak bungalows, a family villa, and an alfresco restaurant and bar overlooking Monkey Mountain; the hotel is perfect for families, friends, couples, or if you’re looking to disconnect. Here are some of my favourite experiences from Gal Oya.
The Nature
Gal Oya National Park boasts rolling evergreen valleys, dense forests, encircled by large granite hills swathed in mist, and at the heart of it all, the Senanayake Samudraya, Sri Lanka’s largest reservoir. It is the embodiment of untouched beauty, almost forgotten by time. The park is a birder’s paradise and hosts over 150 bird species, it is also home to all the usual suspects; elephants, leopards, deer, crocodiles etc. However, since the jungle is so dense, you may not spot the more elusive creatures, but that doesn’t make the experience any less special.
Going on safari here is wild – pun intended. There are two options; a “regular” jeep drive or a boat safari. Each incredible in its own right, but the latter will be the highlight because you might catch a glimpse of the famous swimming elephants. We were lucky to see two elephants swimming in the reservoir, with just the tips of their heads and trunks peeking out. The reservoir is dotted with small islets and halfway through your safari, you’ll stop at one of them for a fantastic picnic breakfast prepared by the lodge. This breakfast still lives rent-free in my head.
The next morning, we went on a jeep drive, and I enjoyed it far more than expected. We drove through the thick jungle to the music of chirping birds and cicadas. While on the jeep drive, we stopped for another delicious picnic made by the Lodge and a river swim, it was glorious.
The History
Gal Oya Park is shrouded by mystique. Although it was only founded in 1954, the forest has a rich history. The park is home to a very old Vedda tribe, and they claim the jungle has a high density of native medicinal plants that cure almost any disease. You can walk through the forest with members of this tribe, regrettably, I did not get to do this, but will definitely do so on my next visit.
The region is peppered with archaeological landmarks. On our safari drive, our guide Sampath pointed out a small mound of carefully arranged stones. These, he explained, were ancient burial sites from travelers who passed through the forest during the time of King Dutugamunu’s conflict with his brother, Prince Saddha Tissa, who was hiding there.
However, I think the most memorable part was the hike to the Ancient Ariyakara Viharaya in the Rajagala Archaeological Reserve. The almost two-hour (I could be mistaken) trek through the dense jungle was hot, hard, and humid.
But once we made it to the top, I was truly awestruck. The sprawling temple complex is said to be spread over 400 hectares and features stupas, a refectory, massive ancient tanks, meditation cells, caves where monks used to reside and several other smaller structures.
It is said that this complex was built by King Lajjatissa who donated it to the monks in 116 – 109 BC. What is even more interesting is that there’s a stone inscription which claims that the Relics of Arahath Mahinda are enshrined in a stupa on the premises. And this is what I love about Sri Lanka, there’s so much rich history and natural beauty that you can find in any corner of the island.
The Vibes
This trip was one of the most memorable family holidays I’ve been on, and a lot of it has to do with Gal Oya Lodge and its fantastic team. Each experience is thoughtfully curated, and their guides are so knowledgeable that if you point to any bush, they’ll give a whole explanation that makes even the most mundane thing sound exciting.
Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t speak about the food. Everything was exceptional, but my favourites would be the black pork curry, which literally melts in your mouth, and fresh river fish cooked with local herbs and wrapped in a banana leaf. Apart from the food, we loved lazing by the pool, playing Scrabble and charades and admiring the scenery around us. So, if you’re looking for a holiday where you can completely disconnect from the outside world and truly enjoy every moment in the present, look no further than Gal Oya Lodge.
A massive thank you to my Uncle Ajitha Madanyake for letting me use his fantastic photographs. If you’re ever in need of beautiful wildlife photos and any information on any animal, he is your go-to guy.
Pictures courtesy of Ajitha Madanayake.