From the moment I witnessed Helen Anthony’s designs at London Fashion Week, I knew I had to learn more about the creative force behind the brand. His ability to merge classic British tailoring with bold, contemporary aesthetics was captivating. Helen Anthony is not just about fashion; it’s about storytelling, craftsmanship, and pushing artistic boundaries. Intrigued by his approach, I later met him at his flagship store in Mayfair for an in-depth conversation about his journey, inspirations, and vision for the future.
I first witnessed Helen Anthony’s mastery at his London Fashion Week show at The Londoner in Leicester Square, London. The show was an immersive experience showcasing the designer’s ability to merge structured tailoring with daring aesthetics. Following this spectacular presentation, I met Naeem Anthony, Founder and Creative Director of Helen Anthony at his flagship store in Mayfair for an in-depth conversation about his journey, inspirations, and future vision for the brand.
Q What inspired you to launch Helen Anthony, and how has the brand evolved since its inception?
My journey into fashion began with a deep appreciation for British tailoring and craftsmanship. From a young age, I was fascinated by the precision, artistry, and structure of tailoring. My grandmother, Helen Thomas, recognized my passion early on and played a pivotal role in shaping my love for the craft. I started working closely with tailors in Savile Row to understand the intricacies of construction and fit. Over time, I developed my own design language; a fusion of classic tailoring and avant-garde aesthetics. Helen Anthony was born out of a desire to challenge traditions while respecting heritage, pushing the boundaries of what luxury fashion can be.
I started working closely with tailors in Savile Row to understand the intricacies of construction and fit.
Q Your designs are known for their bold tailoring and intricate patterns. How do you strike a balance between tradition and modernity?
I believe in keeping tradition alive, but I also break the rules. The foundation of my designs is rooted in classic tailoring, but I challenge conventional structures by playing with length, proportions, lapels, and silhouettes. My approach is not about following trends; I create my own trends. I also design my own fabrics, incorporating vibrant colours and textures that reflect my personal journey and the cultural influences that shape my work.
Q When you started, did you make everything yourself?
Not everything in my first collection was made by me, but my journey in fashion began much earlier. As a child, I was drawn to cashmere, wool, and tweed, yet my parents couldn’t find the pieces I wanted. My grandmother, recognizing my passion, would source vintage fabrics, cut them, and tailor them to my size. This early exposure to craftsmanship inspired me to start designing for myself. When I began wearing my creations, people would ask where I got them from, often assuming they were from luxury brands like Gucci or Dolce & Gabbana. Encouraged by this, I pursued fashion seriously. After my grandmother passed away, I dedicated my first collection to her and even designed my own fabrics. Though initially met with scepticism, my persistence paid off, and my work was recognized globally.
From London to Milan and New York, my journey has been one of passion, persistence, and a commitment to craftsmanship.
Q What sets Helen Anthony apart from other brands in the luxury fashion industry?
My brand is deeply personal, I don’t follow anyone’s path; I create my own. Every collection is a reflection of my experiences, influences, and creative vision. Helen Anthony is not just about selling garments; it’s about storytelling, craftsmanship, and pushing artistic boundaries. I also focus on sustainability, using the highest quality materials such as wool and cashmere, ensuring my designs are timeless and long-lasting. Each piece is made with intention, designed to be worn and cherished forever.
Q Can you walk us through your creative process, from concept to final product?
Each collection begins with a theme, and I immerse myself in designing every aspect, from fabrics to silhouettes. Sustainability is a key focus; I design my fabrics in Britain and collaborate with highly skilled local artisans. My designs maintain the precision of traditional tailoring while embracing modernity, ensuring every piece is both structured and empowering.
Q Sustainability is a major topic in fashion today. How does Helen Anthony incorporate sustainable practices into its designs?
Sustainability is at the core of our brand ethos. Our fabrics are designed in-house and produced by British suppliers such as Scabal and Huddersfield. We implement a zero-waste policy, repurposing leftover fabrics into accessories or donating them to universities. Our entire production process is conscious of reducing our carbon footprint, ensuring ethical practices are upheld without compromising on luxury and quality.
Q What were the biggest challenges you faced as an independent luxury designer, and how did you overcome them?
Building a luxury brand while maintaining high craftsmanship and sustainability is a challenge. Many advised me to start with accessories or simpler designs, but I stayed true to my vision. Entering an industry dominated by established fashion houses was difficult, but I persevered by focusing on my unique design perspective and craftsmanship. Gaining recognition at global fashion events like Milan and New York Fashion Weeks affirmed that my brand deserved a place among the best.
Entering an industry dominated by established fashion houses was difficult, but i persevered by focusing on my unique design perspective and craftsmanship.
Q Your designs often tell a story. How much do your personal experiences and cultural background influence your work?
My personal experiences and cultural heritage are deeply woven into my designs. Growing up with Indian roots, I was profoundly inspired by the intricate craftsmanship, rich traditions, and vibrant colours of my culture. My work reflects a fusion of these influences, blending the timeless elegance of Eastern traditions with the contemporary aesthetics of Western fashion. My grandmother nurtured my appreciation for craftsmanship, while my faith in God and the natural beauty of birds, flowers, and the world around us continually inspire my creative process. Each piece I design tells a story, shaped by my heritage and personal journey.
Q Do you remember the first piece you ever designed? What was it, and how do you feel about it now?
I don’t recall the very first piece I designed, but one of the most meaningful creations I’ve made was for my daughter. Before she was born, I hand-knitted sets for her, ensuring her first outfits were crafted with love and care. That experience holds a special place in my heart; it was deeply personal and symbolic of my passion for craftsmanship. Creating something so intimate reinforced my appreciation for handmade garments and the emotion they carry.
Q Was there a defining moment in your career when you felt you had ‘made it’ in the fashion world?
Milan Fashion Week was that moment for me. Many told me not to go, warning that Milan was too competitive, but I believed in my vision. When I showcased my collection alongside brands like Gucci and Prada, it was a validation of my work. The fact that I was invited back and sponsored for another show proved that I had earned my place in the industry.
Q What advice would you give to young designers starting out in fashion?
Never compromise on your vision. The industry is competitive, and there will be challenges, but staying true to your creative identity is key. Passion, discipline, and perseverance are what drive success. Discovering your authentic style early on will set you apart.
Q Your heritage plays a significant role in your designs. How do you integrate cultural influences into your work?
I come from an Eastern background, and my culture is a major influence in my collections. The vibrant colours, intricate embroidery, and artistry of my heritage are woven into my designs, blended with British tailoring. My brand represents an ‘East meets West’ aesthetic, celebrating the richness of both worlds.
Q You’ve worked with Bollywood celebrities. Do you see yourself expanding into the Eastern market?
Absolutely. I have received immense support from the Bollywood industry, and I am eager to expand further into the Eastern market. The warmth and appreciation I receive from South Asian clients inspire me to showcase my designs in that region. A dedicated show in the East is a dream I am working towards.
Q If you weren’t a fashion designer, what would you be doing instead?
I can’t imagine doing anything else. Fashion is my calling, and I am grateful to be able to pursue my passion every day.
Q Who were your biggest influences growing up, both in fashion and beyond?
My grandmother was my greatest influence. She instilled in me a deep respect for craftsmanship and perseverance, lessons that continue to guide me today. Her creativity and dedication to quality shaped my design philosophy. Beyond fashion, I draw inspiration from the natural world; birds, flowers, and intricate patterns found in nature captivate me.
The harmony and precision in the environment reflect the kind of meticulous detail I aim to incorporate into my designs. My faith also plays a vital role in my journey, grounding me and giving me a sense of purpose in my creative endeavours.
My personal experiences and cultural heritage are deeply woven into my designs. Growing up with Indian roots, I was profoundly inspired by the intricate craftsmanship, rich traditions, and vibrant colours of my culture.
Q What’s next for Helen Anthony?
We are expanding globally while continuing to push the boundaries of design and sustainability. The opening of our flagship store in Mayfair was a milestone, but there’s so much more ahead. I am looking forward to new collaborations and exploring fresh creative avenues.
Naeem Anthony’s journey is one of determination, passion, and unwavering commitment to artistry. His ability to merge traditional craftsmanship with modern innovation has set his brand apart, making him a force to watch in the luxury fashion industry. With a fearless approach to design and an eye toward the future, Naeem Anthony is redefining what it means to be a modern couturier.
