By Sahitra Ukwatte
Nestled deep in the heart of the Central Province, you pass through dense cloud forests and rows of orderly tea plantations to get to the city; it should be the picture of tranquillity, instead, it is beautifully chaotic.
Heavy clouds hung low over the emerald mountains that circled the city of Kandy. A light drizzle had just started as we drove into the cultural capital, and the knot in my stomach got tighter the closer we got. As a child, I despised visiting Kandy. For me, it was a place we went out of obligation, rather than enjoyment. It would entail a long twisty-turny drive from Colombo, followed by (what felt like) an even longer pooja, where I was expected to sit still and stay quiet. But, the worst part was my brother singing (again, for what felt like) the entire journey. “I went to Kandy, and I saw a monkey, sitting on a kambi, wearing a jungi, looking like my nangi”. Thank you for that Aiya.
However, when two of my friends visited Sri Lanka for the first time, I planned a two-day pitstop at this historic city, just to see the important sites before travelling deeper into the lush highlands. Little did I know that this trip would forever alter my perception of Kandy and give me a deeper appreciation of the city that was once home to the last kingdom of Sri Lanka.
Take a Stroll Around Kandy Lake & the City
Nestled deep in the heart of the Central Province, you pass through dense cloud forests and rows of orderly tea plantations to get to the city; it should be the picture of tranquillity, instead, it is beautifully chaotic. The pavements are teeming with people rushing from one place to another and a constant stream of traffic weaves its way around the city, but most of this urban clamour is centered around the Kandy Lake.
As dusk falls, Kandy’s mayhem begins to dwindle. The beautiful white colonial buildings surrounding the lake are lit up, however, they all falter in comparison to the gilded Temple of the Tooth. Perched at the foothills of the Udawattakele Forest Reserve, the large temple complex lights up the surrounding darkness.
The afternoon’s oppressive grey clouds had disappeared and now we enjoyed the cool crisp air. Massive trees shroud the banks of the lake; Nuga, Kumbuk, Sal and Mara some of which were planted nearly a hundred years ago. As we were taking it all in, we spotted a cotton tree with its bulbous white cotton pods bursting open. Suddenly, we heard a splat, followed by another splat and then another one. We looked up and to our horror, those weren’t cotton pods but defecating birds! Before we knew it, it was raining bird poop. We quickly ran away from this firing squad and made it to safety with just one fatality.
Needless to say, an evening stroll around Kandy Lake is a must; just take an umbrella and some wet wipes!
Visit the Sri Dalada Maligawa
Kandy’s main attraction is the Sri Dalada Maligawa or the Temple of the Tooth. This UNESCO World Heritage Site houses the tooth relic of the Lord Buddha, which was brought to the island in the 4th century. The relic holds religious and political importance as it is believed that whoever holds the relic has the right to govern the country. It was moved from kingdom to kingdom, and when the British finally captured Kandy, they handed it back to the Buddhist clergy.
Unlike other Buddhist temples in Sri Lanka, the Sri Dalada Maligawa feels regal with a distinct Kandyan style. Located within the old palace complex it features ornate frescos, massive stone sculptures with intricate carvings, elephant tusks used as decorative arches, and of course, the gold roof with motifs of lotus flowers.
You can view the relic if you visit during the temple’s daily poojas which take place at 5:30AM, 9:00AM and 6:30PM. We opted for the evening one which was lovely as we saw the sunset from the temple. In all honesty though, visiting during the pooja can be a sensory overload. We entered to the sounds of drumming and monks chanting in the distance. The air was filled with the scent of incense, jasmine and lotus blossoms, and there was a sea of white as the devotees lined up patiently to catch a glimpse of the sacred relic. Their devotion was palpable, and despite the crowds, you left with a sense of serenity.
Wander Through the Royal Botanic Gardens, Peradeniya
The next morning, we were treated to blue skies and a cool breeze, the perfect day to explore the botanical gardens of Peradeniya. This verdant oasis is just a short drive away from the city centre. Founded in 1821, although it was used by the Kandyan royal family long before, the garden sprawls over 147 acres and is a testament to the island’s rich biodiversity.
At the centre of the park is a large beautifully manicured lawn encircled by towering trees, there are small pathways which lead to other attractions. The avenue of Royal Palms is a very Instagrammable location, as is (surprisingly) the spice garden boasting Sri Lanka’s finest aromatics. A highlight for me was the orchid grove, where orchids of every imaginable colour and variety bloomed in profusion. We spent a few hours wandering through the expansive garden and enjoying the lovely Kandy weather.
Discover Kandy’s Food Scene
From lacey, crispy, buttery dosas at Balaji Dosa to the loaded manoica chips at Hideout Lounge, the food in Kandy was full of surprises. I recommend you start your morning with some pastries and a classic kiri tê (milk tea) at the Queen’s Hotel. This colonial hotel overlooks the lake, and their small pastry shop captures the charm of old Ceylon.
For a strong cup of coffee head to Buono, their coffee is fantastic, and they have plant-based options too, if you’re into that. Another lovely spot is the Empire Cafe, next to the Temple of the Tooth. The cafe is a little eclectic and a bit kitsch, but their coffee is good and it’s a great spot for people watching. Finally, after a day of walking around the city, there’s nothing like a cold, crisp Lion beer to revive you. Head to The Pub, a Kandy institution, with a lovely breezy balcony to relax on after a long day of exploring.
It’s been a journey (perhaps I had to work through some childhood trauma? I’m looking at you Aiya) but I can finally see the charm in Kandy. This city is steeped in history, and it’s reflected in every fibre of its being. If you think you’re not a fan of Kandy, I urge you to reconsider and rediscover all the hidden, and not-so-hidden, wonders of this hillside citadel.
Some travel tips:
- Kandy is super accessible. It’s just a 4-hour drive from Colombo, but you could also take the train which takes about 2.5 hours.
- If you take the train, choose accommodation within the city centre, allowing you to easily access the important sites and explore the city on foot.
- The best time to visit Kandy is in August for the Esala Perahera. The whole city comes alive as the grand procession carrying the tooth relic winds its way around Kandy.
- If visiting the temple, be sure to pack some white clothes that cover your shoulders and knees.
- Some accommodation options in or near Kandy city are Amaara Sky Hotel, Mahaweli Reach Hotel, The Radh Hotel, and The Trees Kandy. If you’re looking for something more luxurious, head to Santani or W15 Hanthana.
