Haputale and its surroundings are famous for their abundance of waterfalls. From barely trickling to powerfully crashing, it feels as though there’s a waterfall after every bend in the road.
As I write this, it’s 3 o’clock in the afternoon in Colombo. I’ve thrown open all my windows and have the ceiling fan going on full speed, yet despite this, I can feel the heat wafting up from the concrete floor outside, and sweat trickles down the back of my neck. April in Colombo is dreadful. The air is hot, still and oppressive, and the sun is blinding. All of your attempts at staying cool are futile. But, two words cast a spell over all “Colomb-ians” that make us momentarily forget about the unbearable heat and give us hope – long weekend.
With Avurudu around the corner, it’s the perfect time to visit the cooler climes of the lush hill country. Most people flock to the bustling towns of Nuwara Eliya and Ella, but if you want to stay far away from the madding crowd, visit picturesque Haputale instead. This charming little town offers a wonderful mix of activities and is perfect whether you’re looking for a romantic escape or a family getaway this long weekend.
A Closer Look at Haputale
Perched on the southern edge of the highlands, amidst rolling tea plantations and dense cloud forests, Haputale offers the perfect reprieve from the Colombo heat. It’s an easy five-hour drive from the capital. As you slowly wind your way up, the drive becomes more precarious. The road begins to get narrower until it becomes a two-lane road that hugs the side of the mountain with a steep, stomach-churning drop on the other side. However, the view is spectacular, and the higher up you drive, the closer you get to the clouds. Haputale is an often overlooked destination, but since it is situated right in the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea country, it is a great base for you to explore the region.
Chase Waterfalls
Haputale and its surroundings are famous for their abundance of waterfalls. From barely trickling to powerfully crashing, it feels as though there’s a waterfall after every bend in the road. Not all waterfalls are fit for swimming, but when you find one that is, it is glorious. One such fall is Diyaluma, Sri Lanka’s second tallest cascade. Located about one hour away from Haputale, the trek to the falls can be a little challenging, but you’ll be treated to stunning views the whole way through.
As you make your way to Upper Diyaluma Falls (the area you’re allowed to swim in), you’ll hear the rushing water long before you see the Fall itself. Then, you break through the forest to witness breathtaking views of rolling mist-swathed valleys and, of course, the world’s best infinity pools. Take some time to relax and take in the view here, and if you’re brave enough, definitely take a dip, although it will be more akin to a cold plunge!
The next waterfall is the infamous Pahanthudawa Falls, which gained notoriety in 2020 after a certain explicit video was filmed there. In my opinion, this is one of Sri Lanka’s most beautiful and easily accessible waterfalls. From Haputale, it’s a breezy one-hour drive towards Belihuloya. Once you arrive at the waterfall’s car park, it’s a short downhill walk to reach the stream and surrounding rock pools, which are perfect for a refreshing swim. If you’re up for a bit of a challenge, you can make your way towards the upper section of Pahanthudawa Falls. You have to climb/crawl up a slippery rock and walk through a small forested area until you reach the cascade. Although the clear turquoise pool will look enticing, you should not swim there because it is very deep. Instead, opt for the risk-free rock pools circled by smooth stone banks, which are wonderful to bask in the sunshine on.
Trek Through Nature
For those seeking adventure and tranquility amidst Sri Lanka’s hill country, Haputale offers unparalleled trekking opportunities. The Pekoe Trail has recently put our island in the world’s spotlight, and for good reason. The trail consists of a series of scenic routes that twist through tea plantations and cloud forests, taking you deep into the heart of tea country. Stage 13 of the trail runs from Haputale to St. Catherine’s Seat, covering 14.6 kilometers of stunning landscapes and includes a stop at the famous Lipton’s Seat. The leg of the Pekoe Trail is moderately challenging but promises solitude and breathtaking vistas that make every step worthwhile.
For an otherworldly experience, head to Horton Plains National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The park’s 7.2-kilometer loop trail takes you past iconic landmarks like Baker’s Falls and World’s End, but the highlight of the park is its flora, which feels almost prehistoric. Lichen that carpet the bark of trees sparkle like jewels when covered by dew drops; massive ferns with their fuzzy unfurled tendrils sprawl across expansive valleys; and ancient trees whose branches looked mangled after battling the strong winds line the trail. Each moment on this hike is memorable and serene.
Relax
Of course, you can’t forget about the first thing that originally put Haputale on the map — tea. There are numerous tea factories and estates that you can visit during your time here, the most popular being the Dambatenne Tea Factory. Or, if you want to give your tired legs a break after all that trekking, simply enjoy a cup of Ceylon’s finest while watching the thick evening mist roll in and blanket the tea-covered hills.
During your stay in Haputale, I’d recommend you stay somewhere that’s comfortable, cozy, and a bit further away from the town, yet still easily accessible, and there is no better place than Garfield Properties. With a beautifully manicured garden and overflowing flowerbeds, this renovated tea planter’s bungalow offers old-world charm with contemporary comforts. Nestled deep in Haputale, the property has a stunning view of the surrounding mountain range, and at sunset, it’s exceptionally beautiful as the sky is painted a candy-floss pink. Enjoy endless games of croquet during the day and cozy up by the roaring fire in the evening for a nightcap. Breakfast in their gazebo amidst their herb garden was my favourite part.
Far removed from the chaos of everyday life, let Haputale’s cool breezes and serene beauty be your antidote to Colombo and its sweltering heat. After all, Haputale is not just a destination—it’s a breath of fresh air for the soul.
